In Greece, the Cyclades are swept up in the concrete frenzy

"The geological uniqueness of Milos is known throughout the world. We don't want its identity to change," grumbles the mayor.

Private villas and high-end complexes: the entire archipelago, known for its whitewashed houses and blue church domes, is gripped by a real estate frenzy fueled by the tourism boom.

But some are alarmed by an erratic expansion that threatens landscapes of exceptional beauty and the identity of islands with a multi-millennial heritage.

In December, several mayors of the Cyclades as well as the Dodecanese - which includes the very touristy islands of Rhodes and Kos - raised the alarm.

"The very existence of our islands is threatened," they warned in a resolution initiated by the mayor of Santorini, Nikos Zorzos.

Tourism has become "a breeding ground for luxury residences for sale or rent," denounces this elected official whose island, a star destination famous throughout the world, welcomes some 3,5 million visitors for a population of only 15.500 inhabitants.

Pillage

"Santorini, Ios, Milos, Sikinos, Folegandros, and the other Cycladic islands are not land for pharaonic projects," the mayors continued. "We oppose this plundering!"

In Milos, the hotel expansion site is bristling with excavators, cranes, and bulldozers, all at a standstill on this day when spring seems eager to arrive. The upscale establishment, some of whose suites boast private pools, is undertaking an ambitious project: doubling its capacity with the addition of 59 rooms. But faced with a chorus of indignation, Greece's highest administrative court has ordered the temporary suspension of the work.

V Tourism AE, the company that operates the hotel, argues that the extension was approved in 2024 with "favorable opinions from all relevant authorities." However, "there are gaps in the legislation concerning construction," laments Mr. Mikelis.

Like Santorini, Milos is a volcanic island that is home to one of the most unique sites in Greece, Sarakiniko. With its spectacular white formations rounded by erosion, the "lunar beach" is so popular with bathers that in high season, it no longer really makes you want to spread out your beach towel.

On this exceptional but unprotected site, authorities already had to halt construction of another hotel last year. The Ministry of the Environment has just given the investor one month to fill in the foundation excavation.

"Voracious and predatory"

The developments taking place in the Cyclades are related to "voracious and predatory real estate development and not to tourism", explains Ioannis Spilanis, professor emeritus at the University of the Aegean.

On these islands, "traditionally, the land was used for livestock farming," explains the expert. However, "these large plots of land, which had no value, have become lucrative assets. They are offering (locals) very attractive prices, but these remain low for investors."

"Then we build or resell for ten times the price," he observes.

In Ios, a hotspot of vibrant nightlife, a single investor, a Greek who made his fortune on Wall Street, now owns 30% of the island, the mayors point out in their resolution.

In Greece, tourism is a key sector that has contributed to the recovery of an economy that was long on its knees: its total contribution amounts to between 28% and 33,7% of GDP, according to the Union of Greek Tourism Enterprises (SETE).

Since the Covid-19 pandemic, it has been flying from record to record: more than 40 million visitors in 2024, a performance that should have been surpassed in 2025.

In Milos, which has more than 5.000 inhabitants, 48 ​​hotel projects are currently under development, according to the mayor.

The most ambitious projects throughout Greece are classified as "strategic investments", an accelerated procedure created in 2019 to facilitate investments deemed priorities, particularly in tourism and real estate.

But even for small construction projects, "there is often no oversight," laments Mr. Spilanis. "Plans are submitted, what is built is done, and if there is an inspection, they try to extort money from the contractors."

In Plaka, a village perched on the heights of Milos, 84-year-old Yiorgos warns from the balcony of his small building with turquoise shutters.

"Look at Santorini and Mykonos: what they have become should serve as a warning to us," says the retiree born on this island known for its obsidian quarries.

Golden goose

From January to the end of October 2025, 157 new building permits were issued in Milos for an area of ​​only 151 km2, according to the Greek statistical authority Elstat.

In Paros, which has also experienced a real estate boom for several years, 459 building permits were granted during this period, and in Santorini, 461.

In Milos and elsewhere, along the flowery embankments, new buildings with contemporary lines and large bay windows are emerging, far removed from traditional Cycladic architecture.

But many islanders benefit from tourism, a cash cow on land deserted in winter and which otherwise offers few prospects for activity.

At the café in the port of Adamas, some people only open up on the promise of remaining anonymous.

"This island is a gem, but unfortunately in recent years, it's all about money, money, money!" fumes one resident, who herself lives half the year in Germany. "But if I say that in public, everyone will jump on me!"

In a 2024 report, the Ombudsman of the Republic stressed the degradation of the quality of life on islands where residents can no longer find housing, with many owners favouring lucrative short-term rentals.

Not to mention the problems with garbage management or the acute water shortage. Are the Cyclades going too far?

Santorini and Mykonos, the "crown jewels" of Greek tourism, according to the government, had a rather disappointing summer of 2025.

The first suffered a 12,8% drop in air arrivals between June and September, while the second, the summer dance floor of the jet set, only managed a meager increase of 2,4%.

In the maze of narrow streets of Santorini where the crowd struggles to make its way, many souvenir vendors have complained of a significant drop in their business.

The crater island has undoubtedly suffered from the thousands of earthquakes that struck it in January and February 2025.